Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Patterns!!

Good morning everyone! I've been so looking forward to posting this week, because I've just started investigating the world of dress-making, which is really fun!!! So, I went to the haberdashery intending to just get material and figure it out on my own. However when I got there and started talking to the lovely lady there she pointed me towards some patterns, and I found this!!!


So I immediately decided I wanted to do Skirt A from the options on the front of this pattern here - and the nice lady measured out the material I'd need, got me a zip and the right thread and everything. Yaaaay! 




This last is the patter instructions - it was genuinely like a foreign language so before I could start I spent a few hours researching online the various terms and watching some YouTube videos and the like until all of the instructions started to make sense. Took a long time - so many things I just didn't know! I'd never sewn in a zip before, I wasn't sure how to 'gather', I had no idea what interfacing was - and worst I didn't know half of the instructions on the actual pattern! Dots, triangles, specific cutting instructions, all sorts! Definitely do some research before you start if you're going to have a go, haha! 

Also - a word to those of you with self esteem issues based on weight and whatnot. When dressmaking, the sizes are one up from those on clothes you buy off the rail. I'm usually a size 12. So I depressingly had to cut this to dressmaking size 14. FML. (But it's okay, I don't have to put a label in it, nobody has to know...)

So off I went! Started, obviously, by cutting the pattern pieces out of the paper, like this. 

Once they were all cut out, I had to lay out my fabric reallllllly carefully - you are supposed to pre-shrink the fabric by washing it but given that I'd have had to go down to the Uni laundrette and pay for a whole wash just for this bit of fabric, I didn't do it. I'm sure I'll regret that decision later but hey ho!!

Then, you pin the pattern pieces onto the fabric, and cut them out. Be economic with the fabric because the pattern prescribes the minimum amount you'll need, and if you're not careful, you'll run out. That would be really annoying because you'd then have to go back to the haberdashery and get some more. 

Anyway, I cut out the pieces. 


I didn't photograph some of the steps because they were fairly straightforward - although I did skip adding pockets because I didn't have faith in my ability to be able to do them without getting it wrong. Maybe I'll try pockets next time! 

The hard part really was gathering the top of the skirt. Before its gathered, and after you've sewn the front and two back pieces together its just a really big loop of fabric. You have to gather it to make it the right size. To do that, you have to baste two rows of stitches around the top edge, then by pulling the threads and moving the fabric along, you gather it. This was really frustrating - you have to baste so the threads are loose enough to pull but if they're too loose, the basting pulls out of the other side and then before you know it you've pulled the whole thread out and you're back at the beginning. It took me three attempts and on the final time, in frustration, I gathered it, then secured it with a normal stitch just underneath the basting stitches so it wouldn't pull out. Grr. 

After that it was the zip, and that wasn't actually too hard once you understand it. I'd suggest watching a few YouTube videos if you're unsure, they're really helpful. This, for example: 


Anyway, this is the skirt half finished. I need to take it up a bit - I think its designed for people with REALLY REALLY long legs. I also need to put on the waistband - for that I need interfacing, which turns out to just be iron-on material you put inside the waistband to strengthen and stiffen the fabric, to help the waistband keep its structure. I also need to put on my hook-and-eye, neaten the hem. Then I'll need to try it on and see if its the right size. If I've made it too small I'll wait until I've lost weight and can fit in it and if its too big, I'll take it in using some darts. (Sewing term - not actual darts.)

So, some top tips I wish I'd had before I dove in!! Get dressmakers chalk/pen that'll wash off - it makes it much easier to mark the pattern instructions onto the material without staining the fabric. Also - iron the fabric before you use it and if you can, preshrink it. And, check the back of the pattern envelope to make sure you've got everything before you start. I belatedly discovered I needed interfacing and hook and eyes after I left the shop. So make sure you check. 

And just one last note - it's sunny in Lancaster, hurray!!

Until tomorrow then!! xx

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